Posted by: hunterwaters | September 4, 2010

Bareboating in the BVI – Day 6: Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke to Coral Harbour, St. John

Day 6 – Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke to Coral Harbour, St. John

Great Harbour, Jost Van Dyke to Coral Harbour, St. John

Our next-to-last day brought great weather, decent wind, and 2 separate snorkeling stops.  As our morning ritual continued (fruit/coffee, leading to morning snorkeling swim, and then breakfast), we made our initial stop at Long Bay between Jost Van Dyke and Little Jost Van Dyke.

Barracuda under the boat

While the snorkeling wasn’t amazing (that would be for later), we were treated to the sounds of a goat onshore, and for the second straight day, we had a barracuda take shelter right beneath our boat.  This time, we snagged a picture of it through our “escape hatch” (should we capsize, there’s a hammer next to this ‘window’ that we use to break it).

Soper's Hole, Tortola

Off we sailed to the western point of Tortola to check out Soper’s Hole, to re-stock our supplies for the last 24 hours of our trip.  Given the impending hurricane, coupled with it being the down season, there wasn’t a lot of activity and some shops were closed.

Making a last minute decision, we thought it would be nice to try and stay at St. John for our last night of the trip. We chose Coral Bay“the other town” on the island (the other being Cruz Bay, where all the cruise ships dock). Before setting anchor, we stopped at nearby Hurricane Hole for our afternoon snorkeling, and it proved to be much better than our morning stop. Never have we seen more starfish (in fact, the only time we saw any in the BVI), and the mangroves were quite eery to look at underwater).

Sunken Sailboat in St. John

Cruising over to our night stop, we dropped anchor at Coral Bay, which turned out to be like a mobile-home park on the water, with more than a few dilapidated sailboats anchored. Later we came to find out that a lot of people live on these boats (as we did see one person doing his laundry off the side of his boat, with his cats on board watching over him). Before heading ashore, we took a quick tour of the harbor and concluded that it also served as a boat graveyard. If nothing else, this place has character.

Being back in the U.S., we consulted and found a top restaurant, Acqua Bistro, which quickly became one of our favorites of the entire trip. Not only was the food amazing (kudos to the mushroom risotto), but the shops nearby were pretty spectacular. I only know this because my wife says so.  She bought her prize of the trip, a white turquoise necklace. Well, she picked it out. I bought it.

For our last night in the Caribbean, we were showered with some great shooting stars before the almost-full moon came up.

Question of the day: Can you illegally migrate back in to your own country?  There were no customs office in Coral Bay, so we didn’t officially check back in with customs… Apologies to DHS, but rest assured we did everything legal on our departure from the BVI back to the US.

Ipod theme song of the day: None.  Something is going wrong with our generator and batteries. Luckily, it is the last night we’ll need power, but we want to keep the food cool in the fridge/freezer, so no unnecessary power draws tonight.  That includes the ipod speaker.

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